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Hints and Tips / Laying A Patio Using Concrete Products
« Last post by Alan Sargent on February 26, 2016, 09:46:23 pm »

(‘Trade Tricks’ denote Hints and Tips that you may find extra helpful during your works programme. They are designed to save time, effort and money, helping you to gain maximum benefit from your project.)

Planning is the most important part of any garden project. Planning is the key to the success of Hard Landscape schemes in particular, and the benefits of careful forethought will make things run more smoothly from the outset.

The face work or finished slabs are only one element of a project, and each stage, from excavating the foundations to completion should be carefully laid out as areas on a plan, and to a schedule of costs. You need to decide how much you want to spend on the job – some costs will be the same no matter what type of paving slab you choose. When choosing your paving, be careful to consider your choice of colour. What may appeal to you when it is dry, may not be acceptable when seen wet (and vice versa)

Excavating to levels and falls for example, will require careful calculation. The finished level of any paved area against a building must be 150mm below the damp-proof course, thus the volume to be excavated will directly relate to the height of the existing ground, together with the thickness of the slab plus foundations. When calculating the amount of material to be removed from the area to be paved, you should allow for the ‘bulking factor’ – the amount of increase in volume between the original compacted ground and the loose material once excavated. This volume factor may lead to additional costs in skip hire and should be included in your calculations.

Plan ahead and assess how you propose to carry out the work. Do you have sufficient dry storage space for those materials that need to remain dry e.g. cement? Can you receive crane off load vehicles to site, or is your driveway too narrow? Are there any over-head power cables that will affect delivery vehicles (including skip lorries)?

Draw up a scaled plan of your proposed patio or pathway. It is easier to use the metric scale, as the products you select will be described using centimetres. Once drawn, it is a good idea to peg out the proposed area, with wooden pegs and canes laid out, leaving the layout in position until you are happy

Trade Tricks  -  Having laid out your proposed patio, live with the idea for a few days, noting how the project appears in scale to the rest of the garden; check that the patio is large enough to accommodate the required number of tables and chairs; does the patio catch the morning/evening sun and is it perhaps in a wind tunnel. Make a careful note of all of these factors before finalising your plans.

When drawing up your plans, you will need to find a visually dominant line; a line that will ensure that your project appears to have been designed as part of the house and garden, and not simply ‘added on’ without thought of overall balance. The dominant line is normally the longest and therefore most important visual line in sight, often the main wall of the house or building.

This dominant line will become and remain your base line. All other measurements will be taken from this line. It is perhaps worth noting that not all buildings are in fact ‘straight’, especially those that have had extensions and alterations built over the years, and this is the primary reason you need to rely on your guide line – a builders string line firmly secured at each end and tightly stretched between two pegs.

The dominant or primary line should be set at finished level of works i.e. 150mm (minimum) below Damp Proof Course (DPM). This line may also be used as The Datum Level from which all levels and falls are taken.

The Datum Level is that point chosen to be the finished level of all works, and is usually taken from a fixed or constant point – often a door thresh hold – with all other levels being fixed in relation to that point, either as matching heights i.e. levels or as cross-falls, ensuring that rain water does not lay against the house.

Tools & Equipment

For all hard landscaping projects you require a basic set of tools. These include a laying trowel (usually 20cm long) a spirit level (not less than 90cm for paving works), a pointing trowel (125 or 150mm), a rubber or nylon mallet, a shovel and spade. If the project is fairly large, consider hiring a concrete mixer (electric machines are quiet, although on most sites, you will need to hire a transformer to reduce the power from 240v to 120v) and perhaps a stone cutting angle grinder. Always ensure that you wear protective gloves and glasses when using these tools, and never ignore safety instructions. You will also need at least one Builders wheelbarrow for use on every aspect of the scheme.

Most Builders Merchants supply a wide range of paving materials, in various sizes and weights. Care must be taken when carrying or moving these products, and steel toe-capped boots are essential, together with a pair of tough gloves. Wherever possible, slabs should not be stacked laid flat, as the weight of the upper slabs may cause damage to those on the bottom of the pile. If possible, store the slabs in a fairly upright manner against a wall or other substantial strong surface. If you suspect that a slab may have been damaged (hair line crack) it is better not to use that unit as the fault will remain and appear as a damp line for hours after rain fall has dried the rest of the paved area.

Preparing The Ground

The success of the project will be greatly improved if careful thought is given to the preparation of the site. The old adage that Preparation Is Everything is true.

In order to achieve the required levels and cross-falls, the main Datum peg should be identified with the top painted in a bright colour. A series of other pegs, set into the ground and driven in to the same level as the Datum peg, using a length of straight timber and a spirit level to ensure that the whole of the project area is delineated with a number of pegs, each painted with the same bright colour to indicate that they are Datum pegs.

Trade Tricks – Having set out the level/datum pegs, place a second peg against each one and drive it into the ground either higher or lower than the datum pegs, dependent on which way you want the rain water to discharge. These secondary pegs become the finished level pegs, the height above excavated ground of which will depend on the thickness of the chosen paving product.  You should aim for a cross-fall of a minimum of 1 – 100 (If you set pegs two metres apart, and raise/lower the secondary peg by 20mm, this will give you a 1 – 100 fall). This is the minimum fall for smooth slabs and should be increased if an irregular faced product is selected.

If the ground is reasonably solid, the best method of providing sufficient foundations for a domestic hard wearing patio is to lay a foundation mix of one part  Ordinary Portland cement to six parts of sandy ballast, to a depth of 75mm and consolidated using a straight length of timber, with no low or high spots, all laid to levels and falls. Leave this concrete to harden before continuing with the project – usually 48 hours is sufficient.

The slabs are then bedded onto the concrete foundations using a mortar mix of one part Ordinary Portland cement with six part of soft builders sand, to a bed depth of 25mm laid as a full bed – not ‘spot bedded’ as the resultant air gaps may cause problems with frost damage or allow ants to colonise the spaces – and the thickness of the slab (usually 37mm – 50mm).

The make-up of the patio structure is therefore 75mm concrete, 25mm mortar and 50mm slab giving a total thickness of 150mm between the depth of the excavation to the top of the secondary pegs.

Trade Tricks – If you think you may, at some future stage, wish to expand the area of paving, push a length of steel reinforcing bar into the concrete base by around 90cm, and leave 60 – 75cm extending beyond your current work. These bars should be below ground, and will provide a very strong ‘key’ between the present scheme and future works.

Laying The Slabs

The laying mortar mix should be one part cement to six parts of soft builders sand, mixed in uniform batches, each the same strength as each other to avoid any variations in porosity in the mix. The mixture should be sticky, not too wet, nor too dry.

Lay the first slab in the corner of the area to be paved, using five or more trowel spots of mortar, depending on the size of the slab. There should be sufficient material to ensure that the whole under surface of the slab is covered once the slab is tamped into place.  The slab may be bedded into position by gently tapping with a rubber mallet, starting from the centre outwards, not corner by corner as this will result in a ‘domed’ shaped mortar bed.

Using taut builders string lines to ensure accurate levels and falls, carefully checking dimensions especially when using more formal types of slabs, designed to be laid either butt jointed or fully pointed, progress the laying of the paving.

If you are using a random pattern with multi-sized slabs, ensure that a correct balance of sizes are used, and thus avoid having too many of one size in a given area. Mix the various shades of slabs, even drawing from different packs as the work progresses, to ensure that there are no areas of one colour or hue, thus creating a visually uniform finish. Too many small slabs, too many large or same size slabs in one area can also spoil the effect.

Some regular sized slabs lend themselves to the use of spacers  to ensure that all joints are uniform. These may take the form of (say) 13mm battens or plastic strips, in the same way as glazed tiles are set in an indoor bathroom or kitchen.

If you are laying a large area, take the slabs from one or more pack to ensure colour variation, even if nominally the same product. Batches can vary very slightly due to age and length of storage/manufacture. Once an area is complete, seal it off completely to prevent anyone from walking on the work – including dogs – and if you think that any slab may have become loose, re-set it immediately whilst the mortar is still soft.

Trade Tricks – A Conduit for potential future lighting or perhaps an irrigation system should be placed in or under the concrete foundations, and a draw string (strong builders line is ideal), colour coded if more than one string is placed, and left exposed and secured at either end of the conduit. Normally, a 50mm plastic waste pipe is used for this purpose, available in three metre lengths. If the project is wider than three metres, and you require a longer conduit, a 50mm pipe inserted into a 75mm wastepipe much as a telescope, will increase the length without the need for any gaps.


For pointing, a mix of one parts Ordinary Portland cement to four or five parts of soft builders sand is suggested. Once again, the mortar must be carefully batched to ensure a uniform colour. The pointing mixture should be moist enough to roll into a ball, but not too wet that it will not crumble when rubbed in between your fingers.

Ensure that the paving is dry before commencing work to prevent staining. If the joints contain water, this must be allowed to dry before continuing, otherwise you will create more staining.

Place a small amount of pointing mix onto a piece of board (45cm x 45cm) and fill each joint with a pointing trowel, ensuring the gap is fully filled with no low or soft spots (another advantage of a full mortar bed under the slabs). Press the mortar into the joints using a piece of rounded metal, such as a bucket handle, and ensure the joint is filled with well compacted mortar to prevent weed seeds from gaining access.

With some products, you may wish to use a coloured mortar. These dyes are available in liquid or powder form. It is essential that you experiment with these colourants, and a wet mix will appear to match, yet when dry will turn into a vastly different – much brighter – colour than you wish. Try a small sample first, away from the site, noting the amount you have used and adjust to suit once you are pleased with the results.

Summary  Careful planning is the key to success. If you choose more than one type of slab, check the actual measurements of each size. What is listed as a size may be only a nominal description, and if your design is produced with little or no tolerances, this may prove problematic. Some products are nominally (say) 45cm x 45cm are actually 44cm x 44cm or 46cm x 46cm, and whilst the difference may sound small, it may have an overall impact on the scheme over a larger area, with each slab losing/gaining one centimetre.

Alan Sargent
February 2016

Hints and Tips / Site Survey and Logistics Template
« Last post by Alan Sargent on February 19, 2016, 06:38:29 pm »


For use on Garden Surveys and Reports

The following notes are intended for use by Designers and Contractors when tendering for projects, both domestic and commercial. The format is progressive, and therefore some of the information indicated in the survey questionnaire will not be relevant to all schemes.

Similarly, there will be occasions that you may identify, that require you to add more information than shown. Such is the nature of a template – it is purely intended as a guide, forming only a part of your tender documentation.

In all instances however, it is essential to record as much information as possible, discovered at the time of your visit. This document may form part of your quotation, as it is the basis upon which you have quoted. A copy should be placed in the client file at the office, for reference in case of any queries that may arise in the future.


Name of Client (This may not be the property owner or person issuing instructions, but is the person nominated by the owner for the purpose of this survey)

Address of the Property subject to this survey. Include post code and any other relevant information clearly showing the property and area/s to which this survey relates to.

Names and Addresses of Owners and Clients if different from those previously shown.

Date of Enquiry, plus details of person making the enquiry. Also record any third party involvement/recommendations.

Date of Site Visit

Weather and Site Conditions noted at the time of such visit.

Identifying Number of the Scheme or part thereof. This reference number should be unique to that particular site and quotation, especially if other works may arise from the same source to avoid any confusion.


Width of access roads/parking problems/overhead cables/turning problems/schools or hospitals/any other potential hazards or threats to the smooth running of your intended works.


Width of access into site

Turning difficulties or height issues ref. crane offload etc

Condition of roadside fences/walls/gates

Condition of driveway

(As in all surveying matters, ensure you take plenty of time dated photographs of each area, especially noting any existing damage)


Overall impression – Tidy, well maintained?

Damp proof courses – visible, 150mm above ground? Condition?

Air Bricks – Clean, clear, dry?

Gutters and downpipes – clean, unbroken, secure?

Windows and doors – Chipped glass or paintwork? General condition?

Brickwork/stonework/rendering – signs of movement or damage?

Taps – Number and location. Condition of pipework? Water pressure? Permission to use?

Power points – Voltage limitation, circuit breakers? Permission to use?


Oil tanks?  Location? Condition? Any signs of leakage/spillage? Emergency cut off?

Gas inc Propane tanks – pipe runs likely? Emergency cut off location?

Trees – Sizes and types. Surface roots? Location issues? Shade problems? Leaf drop issues re. gutters and pools etc?

Manhole covers (inc BT etc) Location and numbers. Depth of drainrun if applicable ref damage by vehicles/weight/vibration.  Condition of covers and drains.

Swimming Pools – General condition. Paving condition inc. sinkage/movement. Soft areas nearby?  Size of pool? Gallonage? (Ditto reference fishponds and swimming ponds)

Water off site – Location and instructions ref. water disposal/pool emptying.

Fences and walls – Condition and type/s. Neighbour issues likely? Overhanging branches or encroachments on to clients curtilage?

Hedges – Type and size? Width, height and length? Bulking issues if reducing/cutting. Arisings left on site or remove off site?

Soil type – Depth of topsoil? Soil analysis undertaken – results? Bulking factor issues? Spread on site or remove off site? Weed seed or root contamination requiring removal off site? Shrinkage or heave problems identified?

Site Grounds – Soft areas requiring ground boards? Water run off? Drainage problems?

Existing Rubbish on site – amount? Client to remove?

Storage Areas – Dry cover? Access to store for delivery lorries? Area available?


(These items will form part of any quotation, shown as Prelims, with separate costs shown against each)

Site Office inc temporary telephone and First Aid Washing Station

Toilet Hire

Scaffolding inc. weather cover for works areas plus low lift work e.g. walling projects.

Ground Boards for traversing site.

Protection of areas/trees/shrubs/windows/driveways etc

Licences and Special Insurances

Removal of rubbish from site (volume to be assessed and agreed beforehand if impossible to evaluate) Skip hire or grab lorries?

Site dewatering, temporary measures inc pumping equipment.

Specific Hire Charges


Road sweeping or tidying of works external to site (during works or end of project)

Costs of setting up works (1) and Site clearance/final tidy (2)

Clients comments ref. timing/problem neighbours/quiet times/restrictions on access or working times etc.

Any existing plans or drawings available (do not accept responsibility beyond checking them as a guide only)

Any ALARM BELLS!  Are you completely comfortable with your survey?

Don’t forget to date and time the survey.

Head and Senior Gardeners / Selling Yourself – Part Three
« Last post by Alan Sargent on January 27, 2016, 05:05:38 pm »
Selling Yourself – Part 3
Marketing Yourself – Philosophy & Strategy

In this, the third and final part of a short series aimed at demystifying the inner workings of the world of seeking work in the Gardening Industry, I will attempt to guide you through the essentials of Marketing Your Skills

Although these articles are written as standalone features, it is very useful to read through Parts One and Two (Professional Gardener Issues 149 and 150) prior to digesting this particular section, as the whole process of selling yourself is a complex science.
These articles are based on courses run by The School of Garden Management ( which in turn, are based on The Head Gardeners Survival Manual.
While the School philosophy and structure involves bespoke one-to-one mentoring, and these features are mere snippets, I hope you will find this short series helpful to your careers.

Part One explored the business of producing a portfolio, with the sole objective of selling yourself in words and pictures. Part Two covered the difficult subject of producing and presenting your curriculum vitae.

Marketing Your Skills – As an Individual

It is never too early to start preparing your foundations when it comes to the subject of Marketing Your Skills. Once you recognise the basic essential requirement of starting to compile the various elements of your experience, it becomes easier to understand the need for such information.

No matter how you start to collate every bit of previous experience, either in written form e.g. describing specific training you received, visits to gardens and lectures, people you perceive to be influential in the sphere of your particular type of work – names, places, training, influences, experiences, sites of interest – a host of information, all written in a form which is easily accessed, either alphabetical or chronological, or in other documentation form.
College courses, certificates awarded, citations received. Each and every document, date and mile-stone in your career to date should be listed.

You may be surprised to see just how much data you have collected over the years, and how, once collated into one foundation file, you will begin to see how and where you may like to see your career develop. You may find gaps in your experience, and decide to fill those holes with more courses and experience before finally appreciating that you have a solid base on which to begin Marketing Yourself.

It is a fact that you cannot begin to sell yourself unless you are really comfortable in your own skin. If you are unhappy with your own talent, how can you hope to convince potential employers or clients  that you are worthy of their time and trust in your abilities?

It necessarily follows that your choice of career is married to your skills base and comfort zone. Who you are should match What you are. You will come across as a 100% genuine individual, and potential clients will be relaxed in your presence only if you too are at ease in your own company.

During an interview with a client, do not be concerned if you realise that you have gaps in your knowledge. Nobody knows everything, and no-one will expect you to have all the answers. An essential skill is learning when and critically, how, to admit that you do not have a particular answer to hand. Always avoid using the words ‘I don’t know’. Absolute taboo! If you are stumped, simply say ‘I will check that out and get back to you’. (Make sure you do find out and relay the correct answer!)

(I will not mention the fact that you need to be clean, tidy, sober, punctual, reliable etc, as these are taken as a given!)

In this article, I am concentrating on you as an individual, selling yourself to a potential  employer or client, not as an employee going through a job interview process – we have covered those pretty thoroughly in Parts One and Two, although of course, if you decide to make a direct approach to an employer who has not advertised a vacancy, the advice may be useful!

Although it does not matter which scenario you meet, if you have your foundation established, a clear goal in mind, starting to develop specialist knowledge, and following an industry pathway (any field you can think of, from floristry to wild flower projects, seaside gardening to green roofs, commercial enterprises/hotels/office complexes, etc; becoming more knowledgeable and outwardly competent than your competitors will enable you to sell your talent to the right buyer) you will find yourself on the right road.

Marketing Yourself As a Business

(It is very important to notice  that I have not covered, in any way, the financial requirements involved in setting up and running a business. This is a very complex, vitally important element, and must be addressed by you and your advisers beforehand)

Essentially, you will have followed the ‘Individual’ route as described above. Every successful business has been built by driven individuals. You have developed into a confident business-like person and now wish to create your own niche in the Market Place.

This niche may be as the proprietor of a company, a consultant, temporary Head Gardener, Specialised Skills person e.g. offering topiary, pruning etc, Trainer/Mentor to Special Needs classes, Historic Garden Tour Guide, Cemetery/grave Care, Events venue organiser – again, a very wide range of specialist niches that may be filled.

Perhaps nobody has ever thought there could be a market for such services! Perhaps that because nobody has yet launched such a business!

As a first priority, it is essential to decide a name for your services. Again, it is imperative that you are comfortable with the chosen business name. If it is a word or phrase that is difficult to pronounce, especially when answering the telephone, it is not a good idea to become tongue tied or convoluted.

Choose one that clearly describes you or your business. If you have an appropriate name e.g. Green, Gardener, Branch, Field, Lake, Brown etc, you may or may not decide it is a good idea to incorporate your name into the title of the company! Some may find it irresistible, others may see it as slightly contrived.

Consider how others react to your prospective name. Ask your friends and family, and seek their advice. Remember, you will be stuck with that name forevermore! (Or at least, until you sell the firm, when the correct name will be equally  important.) I suggest too, that you do not tie yourself down to a region or place unless you do not intend to work outside that area.

Once you have chosen your name, specialist niche market, print face/colour for advertising, headed notepaper, vehicle sign writing and a host of related items that should be evaluated when starting out, you can begin with your Marketing Campaign.

How your campaign will evolve is dependent on the nature of your chosen field. Assuming that you will be working alone at the outset, with no employees and therefore limited to the amount of work you can handle, your campaign should grow from little acorns before becoming great oak trees!

Organic growth of a business is a vital element. For example, if you have the wherewithal to take a full page advertisement in The Times or Telegraph, you would be swamped with work you could never hope to handle, and thousands of disgruntled readers. Ridiculous? I have seen such things happen! Never promote or seek work you cannot hope to handle, therefore having decided on your presentation and colour scheme (important to maintain the same look to begin to gain recognition by regularity. If you change your style of advert, you lose the benefit of public awareness) begin you campaign.

It may be simple flyers or inexpensive advertisements taken out in Parish magazines (excellent source of work). One of the most effective adverts I know of was produced by a person, with the heading ‘Head Gardener - Due to Take Early Retirement Seeks Work in the
XXXXXXXX Area’. Very simple and to the point. The advert clearly intimated that the gardener was highly skilled, with a valid reason to advertise and ready and available to start work fairly imminently, and in their area.

Similarly, if your expertise is in something more obscure, and therefore a potential niche market, such as Historic Orchards, or Ancient Dew Ponds, Seventeen Century Knot Gardens,
or Medicinal/culinary Herbs & Vegetables, seek out those potential sources of work by contacting those in charge of such gardens, including The Historic House Association, or via your Local Authorities, who hold details of a wide range of Associations and Orders.

To recapitulate – once you have established your personal foundation skills and listed them into proper order, gained the confidence to be comfortable with your own talents and knowledge, the business of marketing yourself is relatively straightforward.

However, the clearer the path that you set out for yourself, and the greater the ultimate goal, the more successful you will become. Have faith in your abilities, and if you find that you are less than comfortable with any element, gently tweak your path until you find one that you find exciting and rewarding.

Never lose sight of your goal, and always find a way of feeling confident, even in the face of adversity. The road is never smooth, but by turning every negative into a positive by learning by experience, you will succeed.

Alan Sargent FCIHort
January 2016

Alan Sargent Philosophy / Professional Non-Payers
« Last post by Alan Sargent on January 27, 2016, 05:03:07 pm »
Professional Non-Payers

It truly seems that no matter how careful you are with ensuring that your documentation is in order – fully specified quotation, detailed method statements, Terms & Conditions that you have devised over the years, perhaps using your own variation of one of the standard types of form to ensure that you have been as careful as you can possibly be, you somehow end up with The Client From Hell!

As a long term Landscape Contractor (since 1968) who has worked for some of the wealthiest people in the land, turned over tens of millions of pounds during those years, and dealt with some of the canniest clients, I am still aware that I am only one job away from serious trouble should a customer decide to be vindictive or decide not to settle their account.

Over recent years, and being well past ‘normal’ retirement age, most of my work involves Consultancy, with no landscape commissions over ten thousand pounds being accepted, therefore my options for being bankrupted by any one individual contract are remote, I am as wary as ever, ensuring that all documentation is as bullet-proof as possible.

As a Consultant, I carry out a certain amount of ‘Court’ work as an Expert Witness and come across sad tales of woe involving non-paying customers. Even with 100% correct paperwork, it is still possible to give some clients the green light to become very difficult especially regarding the final payment.

I have tried to analyse these situations and have arrived at a number of conclusions.

A large percentage of our clients are ‘Business’ people, and some pride themselves in winning at any negotiation, treating contractors working on their houses as though they were either business rivals or company employees, there to be defeated or subjugated by the all-powerful Boss. This may sound somewhat neurotic, but sometimes it is difficult to imagine any other logical reason for their attitudes and behaviour once the job has started!

As they are used to dissecting contract documentation, actively seeking any loophole or item open to interpretation, having discovered these ‘defects’, they are able to exploit them should they wish to be awkward.

I have personal knowledge of one client who boasted that he ‘never paid the last 10% of any job!’ He actually prided himself in this matter, considering anything less as a ‘business failure’ on his part. His attitude was that the contractor marked up their prices by 20% and therefore felt it his right to ‘share’ that profit.

Another decided that he had overspent his budget by ten thousand pounds, and whilst he was very pleased with the work, and that he knew he would have to pay in the end if ‘chased around the Courts for a couple of years’, he would settle the final account (£16,000) on the spot if the contractor would agree to reduce the bill by the ‘overspend’. Either take £6,000 now or chase me for the £16,000! (And he was a Lawyer!)

How to prevent or try to avoid these difficulties? Ensure that your paperwork and contract documentation are substantially in order. If a case goes to Court, the Judge will not be too sympathetic towards a Plaintiff (the Client) if he/she thinks they are trying to be pedantic in most cases. (Obviously, this will depend on the precise nature of any complaint). Trying to outwit a genuine contractor by using loopholes and technicalities in their quotation is frowned upon if the firm have used common sense and exercised reasonable caution, Duty of Care and due diligence. (And an acceptable job of course!)

Secondly, concentrate on your Terms & Conditions of Payment. For any reasonable sized project (dependent on the size of your business, say from £1,000 upwards) present the client with a Pro Forma invoice for the mobilisation portion of the project.
Pro Forma invoices are not invoices in the normal sense, and should not have an invoice number, only the date of issue and perhaps a reference number. Only once this Pro Forma has been paid in full and the money safely in your bank should you issue a normal invoice complete with Date and Tax Point, number etc.

Pro Forma invoices should be presented in an agreed sum or percentage of the project, usually 25% of the contract total. This may however vary if the client has chosen an item (an expensive garden seat for example) that will require payment at the time of purchase and will be of little or no use to the contractor should they change their minds and not go ahead with the job. It such cases, the whole cost of the ‘special’ item should be paid in advance plus the mobilisation element i.e. the garden seat cost plus 25% mobilisation payment.

Depending on the size of the job, you may require either Stage Payments i.e. against the completion of an agreed amount of work, or Interim Payments i.e. at certain agreed times e.g. weekly/fortnightly/monthly. These must be settled in full within agreed time scales, usually five days from date of invoice. (If the client is not always available due to business commitments or holidays, these must be recognised and included in the programme of payments.)

Essentially, monies must be settled in a timely manner as the job progresses. Nobody would dream of walking into a car showroom and ordering a new model without accepting the payment structure of the garage business. Business is business, and terms are terms!

Within your Terms of Payment there should be a clause stating that all late payments are subject to 2.5% above Basic Bank Rate if not settled within your time scales. I have been known to issue invoices made out as a separate item showing the sum of 2.5% of the outstanding monies (2.5% of £3,000 is £75.00, and the raising of an invoice which become ever larger in the event of non-payment is quite salutary). Of course, you may opt for 5 or even 10% - if the figure is part of your Terms of Payment, the Court will honour that figure and order it to be paid if you are successful in your case.

Similarly, a written reference  to additional costs that will be levied should you be obliged to leave site/suspend the project until funds are in place and will be incurred at a rate to be decided. (Often shown as ‘all reasonable costs’ in leaving and returning to site, this will include off-hiring and re-hiring equipment/transport costs, re-scheduling the works etc.) This can be a costly exercise and must be paid for by the client.

If you decide to include all of these recommendations into your tender documentation you will certainly clip the wings of any awkward customer. Knowing that being unnecessarily difficult is going to start costing money will ensure that boastful and bullying behaviour is much reduced!

Never forget that we are contractors, and to work carefully within our own chosen framework and terms and conditions. Sometimes we have to protect ourselves, and such protective measures must be in place before acceptance of the work. We cannot add such clauses afterwards once things turn difficult!

Engaging a Garden Designer or Landscape Contractor (Part Three)

Having made the decision to employ a Garden Designer and appoint a Landscape Contractor, how do I ensure they interpret my wishes once they start work?

In this, the third of a series of three articles, Alan Sargent, who has been building high quality gardens since 1968, Founder of The Association of Professional Landscapers (APL), The School of Garden Management ( and a retired RHS Chelsea Show Gardens Judge will guide you through the various ways of ensuring you get the best out of your decision to trust the professionals.

Garden Designer or Design and Build Contractor?

Let us look at the practical aspects of engaging and instructing a Garden Designer, and their role in producing your garden. As the client, you will have to decide whether or not to employ the designer purely as the artist responsible for drawing up plans, in outline form only or more detailed planting plans and specification, and perhaps construction technical drawings from which the Landscape Contractor will take instructions and information. Having produced all ‘paperwork’, the designer’s work is complete, and should not return to site for any reason, unless agreed beforehand. This cut off point is very important, as the Contractor cannot be held responsible for any alterations that you may request during the building of the garden if such works are at variance to the designers original specification.

Once the designer has left the scene, they should not be invited back to inspect the finished work (unless agreed beforehand with the Contractor) and expect to criticise any aspect – including ‘official’ variations agreed between yourself as the client and the contractor. If the Designer is to give final approval to the project, they should be engaged in a formal manner as the Project Manager. This additional work is usually based on a percentage of the total contract price (10%), and is recommended for larger schemes, especially more complex projects that require artistic direction on a regular basis.

This statement may sound very officious, but it is important to realise that contractually, the Landscaper can only have one person in charge. That person will be nominated in the contract documents as being ‘The Client’ or ‘The Client’s Agent acting for and on behalf of The Client’, and as you can imagine, anyone arriving after completion and making adverse comments on any part of the  works can cause problems!

Obviously, not every project will require this level of management, but even the smaller, sub  £5,000 schemes should be treated in a professional manner to avoid expensive complications and legal problems in the future.

Landscape Contractor – Design & Build

Landscapers who offer Design and Build packages are responsible for all aspects of the scheme, including technical drawings and specification. Just because the firm is building the garden, they must produce working drawings to instruct their craftspeople in exactly the same way as a Garden designer. The firm is completely liable for all works, and often there is a legal requirement for specialists to be employed, including Structural Engineers to produce plans and drawing for those parts of the scheme that may prove dangerous e.g. retaining walls and load bearing structures. Some matters cannot be designed by ‘ordinary’ Designers, and require the input of qualified professional experts. New regulations entitled Contract Design Management (CDM) Regs came into force in Spring 2015 currently only covering ‘hard’ landscape elements.  These are legally enforceable, and your Contractor and Designer should be fully conversant with them.

A Design and Build firm should be able to produce solutions to problems as they arise, with everything carried out ‘In House’ on a day by day basis, but it is advisable to have one named person in charge of the site, usually a Foreperson, and you should expect to engage with him or her at a personal level, exchanging contact telephone numbers etc to ensure a close rapport during the works. You should expect to be kept up to date with progress as often as you desire, and keep a note of all important conversations as they occur.

The person in charge of the site should maintain a Day Book in any event. This ‘diary’ will record all matters such as the weather, delivery dates and times, materials delivered to site and their provenance, staff numbers on site etc.

Materials and their significance in the future

We have already discussed ensuring that a Products Library is established with samples of all important materials to be used in the scheme. This library will ensure that only approved products are brought on site, but another element for the future well-being of the garden is the requirement for a list of suppliers and the provenance of such items as building sand – you will need to record the name/type of sand and the quarry from which it was purchased, together with information regarding the ratio of sand to cement (mortar mix) in case you ever need to extend or repair a project. This record will include a wide range of products, including bricks, paving, timber etc – anything that you may need to purchase in the future to ensure as close a match as possible.

Equally important is the name of plant suppliers. Even if you have been given a warranty against failure of plant stock, once that time has elapsed, you may wish to replace or add  a tree or shrub and use the same supplier. (Be aware that even using the same supplier is no guarantee that plant material will match. This is especially true of evergreens such as Taxus and Buxus. Batches of plants from the same grower/supplier will vary from season to season although technically exactly the same specification)

Warranties and Aftercare

Having completed the project, the Contractor should provide you with aftercare leaflets or written instructions describing the various methods of pruning and watering your new garden. This will either take the form of a site specific schedule of all plants used in the garden, including fertilising and maintenance guides, or a generic document explaining the requirements of trees, shrubs and herbaceous in general. The watering guide should offer advice on amounts and times for applying water, and may even nominate the type or style of irrigation equipment.

Importantly, all written guarantees and warranties should be packaged and presented to you as part of the final Handover documentation and may include instructions for use etc, and again, the name and address of the supplier should be provided.

Whilst these articles may appear too complex for a simple garden makeover - too much fuss and unnecessary bother - consider the ramifications of simply going ahead and engaging a Garden Designer and getting someone in to build the scheme without due regard to the potential cost of making the wrong choice. Not only could you end up with something that was not to your liking, built in a manner that is not going to last very long, with unsuitable materials introduced to your property  (including weed infested topsoil and container grown plants full of vine weevil!) and you may well find yourself involved in costly Court action trying to resolve an expensive and complex problem.

The legal phrase ‘Caveat Emptor’ – Buyer Beware – could have been written to describe the world of Landscape Gardening. Using sound logic and business sense should ensure  you will have the garden of your dreams, designed and built by skilled passionate professionals.

Alan Sargent FCIHort

Engaging a Landscape Designer or Contractor – Where do I begin?

You have reached a decision to employ a Garden Designer or Landscaper who offers Design & Build, and prepared yourself to engage with them in producing a quotation for the scheme. How do I find such a Professional?

In this, the second of a series of three articles, Alan Sargent, who has been building high quality gardens since 1968, Founder of The Association of Professional Landscapers (APL), The School of Garden Management ( and a retired RHS Chelsea Show Gardens Judge will guide you through the various ways of locating a suitable Designer and/or Landscaper.

Garden Designer

Choosing a Garden Designer is perhaps the most difficult part of the whole process. Whilst it may be a simple matter of checking via the Internet, typing in ‘Garden Designer’, with perhaps a codicil ‘In the Chichester area’ just to reduce the number of likely candidates, you may be presented with a considerable choice of designers. If you like the look of a particular style of presentation, try to ignore pretty pictures of flowers and set dressed planters, and look at the quality of the actual plans. Very often, they may be accompanied by a lovely perspective drawing, and the whole package is appealing. Do not be lured into thinking that a set of pretty pictures is good garden design!

Although there are many hundreds of qualified and semi qualified designers who are members of either The Society of Garden Designers (SGD) or The British Association of Landscape Industries (BALI), and if they show either of those logos, you may be confident that they are competent designers, as both organisations are scrupulous in maintaining their membership credentials.

Landscapers, both Build and Design & Build

Similarly, Landscapers who are members of either The Association of Professional Landscapers (APL)(who are also likely to be members of Trustmark) and The British Association of Landscape Industries (BALI) will have been thoroughly vetted and approved. They will carry full insurance, employ qualified staff and maintain the highest standards of workmanship and professionalism. This does not imply that those who are not members of either are not competent, simply that both APL and BALI members have been thoroughly screened before admission to the Associations.

For smaller contractors, especially those offering landscape works and maintenance many belong to The Gardeners Guild, which also has strict rules of entry. Everyone joining must have at least one formal Horticultural qualification, and are subject to a complaints procedure and pay formal subscriptions on an annual basis.

Be aware that others may claim to be ‘members’ of other professional associations, some of which are nothing more than Forums, with membership simply being a matter of joining without any meritorious selection whatsoever.

Many other firms will be perfectly sound, competent and confident, and not Association members, but as long as you have seen all relevant documentation including insurance and bankers details, and ensured that they are following your Method Statement (see first instalment), there is no reason why they should not be included in your Tender List.

Products Library

Whether or not you engage a separate Garden Designer or opt for a Design and Build package, you will need to physically see samples of all materials proposed for use in the project. These may include bricks, paving, timber, top soil, plant materials, turf etc – every item that is scheduled or promoted for use in the scheme must be agreed in writing beforehand. All products, especially ‘hard’ landscaping materials such as paving should be seen, examined both for quality and colour (ensure you agree the product both wet and dry, as the colour variation may be extreme) should be placed into a ‘product library’ and kept on site. This is to avoid any misunderstanding regarding materials at a later stage.

Top soil is also very important. Samples should be inspected and a detailed analysis obtained from the supplier (they offer this service as a matter of course, without charge or comment) to prevent contaminated soil from being used on site. Poor quality imported soil could result in a considerable drop in the value of your property, so don’t be shy about requiring this information.

Turf should be nominated by the designer as being the correct seed mix for the site. Most turf will meet a minimum British Standards quality, but it is advisable to match the existing site soil with imported turf soil to ensure a compatible marriage between the two materials.

You should note all specification, especially regarding matters such a depth of concrete under paving, thickness of wall etc, to ensure ‘like for like’ quotations.

Taking up References

You should require at least three references from previous clients, especially from Landscapers. These should be fairly recent, and to the approximate value of your project. They should include name and address, and you would be well advised to write if possible, as you are more likely to receive a fuller answer, including any contentious matters that may not be comfortable to recall over the telephone.

Labour to be used on site

Given the wide range of skills required to build a modern garden, there is no reason why a contractor should not employ specialised sub-contract labour. A fully trained bricklayer, employed on an ad hoc basis will be faster, cleaner and cheaper than a capable but slow landscape operative. Certainly, expect specialists such as fibre glass installers, electricians and plumbers to be brought on to site. There should be no issue with this (normal) practice, but you will expect to see their insurance documents (Public Liability) and a note in the wording of the contract to the effect that named specialist sub-contractors will be used on the scheme should be made for the sake of regularity.

Care should be taken to avoid employing a company who relies on casual labour for general works. Even using an Employment Agency, the fact that the workers will not be part of a long term team, or have any kind of known background upon which their skills may be established by other team members, there is a risk of low productivity at the very least.

If you follow the simple rules as suggested in articles one and two, you should have a Designer, willing and able to interpret your requirements, and a competent, qualified and insured contractor signed up to build the garden of your dreams. All parties will be using the same set of rules of the game, and everybody content that each knows what is expected of the other in a timely manner.

Payment terms – likely scenarios

Obviously, the larger the project, the more likely a number of payments or instalments will be required. Most contractors require a Mobilisation payment in advance of starting work on site. The normal amount is based on a percentage rate of 10%, although others may charge 20 0r even 25%, dependent on the amount of materials to be ordered and delivered early into the project programme.

Any special feature or item that is bespoke to your project will normally need to be paid for in advance, especially if the contractor does not have an account with the supplier, or the product is of such a nature as to be of no use to them should you change your mind and cancel the item.

Stage payments may be requested at regular intervals based on time spent on site or the amount of work completed. A final payment request will be made on Practical Substantial Completion of the works (i.e. end of the practical part of the contract. Some contracts will be extended to take warranties and aftercare into consideration before releasing the final payment known as ‘Retention’ – usually 2.5% of the contract sum)

In the third and final article, the critical operation of agreeing Practical Substantial Completion, Site Handover and Aftercare, together with Final Settlement of Account will be examined to ensure a smooth transition and completion of a well thought out project!

Alan Sargent FCIHort
Are you thinking of engaging a Garden Designer, Landscaper or Garden Contractor, and wonder where to start?

You have reached a decision; you are definitely going to start looking for some Professional help to build your new garden. Whilst not expecting a Chelsea Gold Medal entry, you would like an easily maintained area in which to relax and enjoy the fruits of your hard working career. But - where to begin? Searching on-line for a Designer? Do I need to employ a Garden Designer? How do I find a qualified Landscaper? How do I know they will in fact be fully  Professional?

 Alan Sargent started his landscaping career in 1968 and has won numerous awards including Design and Build of more than sixty RHS gardens at the various Shows, and has been involved in working within the Gardens industry in a number of roles over the years, including RHS Chelsea Show Gardens Judge and as the Founder of The Association of Professional Landscapers (APL) and The School of Garden Management, ( set up with the sole purpose of training management skills to contractors, including site etiquette and working together with the home owner.

In this first article, Alan will examine the ways in which you can direct and decide both the manner in which you would like to see the project proceed, and who to instruct to carry out the works in a sensible progressive programme to suit your timing, budget and any other factors that may be important to you.

For instance, you may wish to have the works completed in stages, according to your life style and life stage. Perhaps you have a very important family event, with strict deadlines to be taken into consideration. You may decide to do the planning yourself – or at least, have an input in the style and content of the garden. Perhaps you require only the construction works completed, leaving the planting aspect for your own green fingers.

Let us assume that you wish to explore the whole package – Design and Build, leaving the maintenance issues until the garden is complete. You will need to look at the scheme in three separate stages. The first task is to decide whether or not you wish to engage a Garden Designer. Designers mainly operate as individuals, but sometimes work as part of a Design Practice or team. Many Landscape businesses also offer Design, either design only or as a Design and Build package. Both of these options bring their own benefits. The Designer, being independent, will not have any preconceived ideas of working within the limitations – if any – of a contractor’s work force. He or she will design according to your wishes, and you then have to seek a firm to carry out the build. A Design & Build company may wish to nominate those skills and materials they are happiest to work with, but as long as both you and the company are satisfied with the plans and specification, there is not a problem.

It is therefore very important that you present the potential contractor (let us refer to the Designer and/or Landscaper as ‘the contractor’) with as much information as possible. If you imagine that everybody has their own ideas of the best or easiest way to do something, but you really want to see things completed in a programme to suit you and your personal circumstances, you should produce a Method Statement.

Method Statement – How to ensure that everybody is quoting ‘like for like’.

It is extremely helpful to the Contractor to have a clear set of instructions from you regarding the manner in  which you would like the works to proceed. If you produce a series of instructions entitled ‘Method Statement’, first of all consider the access to site. Remember, these are your ‘rules’, and they should be the same for all contractors to follow when quoting to ensure they are all tendering like for like. If you have to share a driveway with the contractor, this fact should be noted, but with a proviso that (for example) access to the garage must be kept clear at all times. The width of the access gates is XYZ inches, with overhead power cables that may affect crane offload deliveries. The driveway is in good condition, with however many man hole covers also in good condition, and all skips or material deliveries must be placed on protective sheeting.

Access to the side of the house is only XX inches, with an oil/gas pipe fixed to the wall which must be protected at all times.

The patio windows have been recently installed and are in clean, undamaged condition. All windows must be covered in suitable protective sheeting when carrying out works that may involve stone chippings damaging the glass.

Water and electricity will be provided without charge for the duration of the works. All taps must be turned off at the end of the day. Machinery and equipment must not be washed down in the vicinity of any drains to prevent silting.

The length of the list may be as long as you wish. You should also consider including  ‘site etiquette’ items such as the banning of radios, including personal headphones (as these affect the safety of operatives and others nearby, if they cannot hear properly), car or van parking outside the property (if room is restricted either on the site or blocking the street).

Toilet facilities may be an issue. On larger projects, a site toilet should be costed into the scheme, or perhaps a dedicated loo nominated for the duration, either in the house, or perhaps swimming pool or tennis court changing rooms may be available. Whatever the options, the Method Statement should include an item regarding muddy boots and general cleanliness!

It is helpful to produce a number of time/dated photographs of the garden, as a set of ‘before and after’ shots, paying special attention to windows and doors, fences and gates, paved areas if they are to remain, trees and shrubs, ponds and pools – anything that may be damaged should be recorded, and a copy of those pictures given to the chosen contractor at the time of signing the contract agreement to avoid any disputes at the end of the job.

Cover all options and thoughts.

If you produce your Method Statement as a schedule of everyday operations – how you would like to see the job carried out, and have this document available when you first meet a prospective contractor, it is also advisable to have another paper ready to present to him or her. This should be in the form of a mini-questionnaire, with headings and blank spaces left for the requisite information.

Name and address – telephone including landline – email address - insurance details – bankers details – web site – Accountants details.

All bona fide contractors will have this information available, perhaps not at the initial meeting, but the fact that you require this basic statement will ensure you only engage a professional firm.

There is no suggestion that you will be acting a part of the ‘Contractor Team’ by requiring this level of information. All you are doing is ensuring that you employ a bona fide designer and landscape contractor who will quote using the same working template. Having chosen your garden builders and agreed financial terms, a review of the practical aspects of undertaking the works may well be beneficial by mutual agreement.

In the second part of this series, Alan will look at the various methods of finding suitable persons and contractors. Although finding good quality contractors to provide you with quotations may appear straightforward, there are channels and checks to ensure that you are not mislead by overblown statements of excellence and ability!

Alan Sargent FCIHort

Allandscaper's Essays / Garden Designers – Protective Check List
« Last post by Alan Sargent on January 01, 2016, 04:28:55 pm »

I could not think of a more appropriate title for this post – perhaps Designers Survival Guide might fit the bill! Just for the record, although I am ‘known’ as a Contractor and Consultant, nowadays concentrating on the latter (it’s an age thing!), I have designed some 250 gardens, including 37 RHS Show gardens, and worked with many of the finest designers of the time (and today) in the country in producing private gardens large and small.

As I have explained, I grew tired of people wanting free advice, and resolved that problem by splitting my designer persona from the contractor side of my business. However, I decided to use my experience as a contractor when dealing with my ‘design’ clients, adapting some of the practices previously so invaluable when creating the documentation for a tender/quotation reference construction projects.

Amongst these forms was a Client Instruction Form (my title, call it what you wish) which began by identifying the client and the site address. The form starts with these important notes, together with date, time and weather conditions at the time of interview.

The initial form did not include details of site survey, concentrating on the Client’s Brief To Designer, as these instructions will be needed to establish the basis of the clients requirements. It is extremely important at some stage – and why not from the outset? – to register/record the actual Brief.

I have mentioned Dangerous Words on another post, but on this initial interview, they can be very useful if the client asks for Wildlife Friendly, Noisy and exciting water feature, Safe water feature, organic vegetable garden, or any number of elements to be included in your proposed scheme. The list may be as long as you wish, perhaps even as a separate menu as a reminder, and can be adapted to your style of designing.

The main purpose of this Check List is to ensure that you have a written record of your instructions, to prevent the client from denying they asked for this or that when it comes to paying the bill! Included in the list will be a note of your fees and payment structure. By including these as a part of the Check List, they will be seen to be a part of the job, inasmuch as you are selling your time and expertise.

By highlighting the various ‘types’ of design input you offer, you will include office time, travelling time/expenses, research time – when you are investigating something special that the client has requested, perhaps a type of pumping system, lighting variations etc, that will require you to spend time on – site visits and the anticipated number, again including payment structure and dates. Certainly, when a client asks to have something they have bought/been given e.g. a statue, specimen plant, fountain etc, you may have to take advice or alter your original ideas to accommodate the item.

At the end of the initial  interview, both you and the client  should sign the document, copy for each, as this Check List will ensure that you have established the grounds for your engagement, avoiding any disputes regarding the clients instructions at a later date. (I know that most designers already operate a similar system, but I know of others who do not!)
Alan Sargent Philosophy / Keeping The Faith
« Last post by Alan Sargent on January 01, 2016, 04:28:08 pm »

There has been a lot written and spoken lately, about the need for Designers and Contractors to ‘Work Together’. Whilst we all know what this is supposed to mean in practice, but in reality, there should be no need to remind ourselves of the benefits of Working In Harmony (which is more pleasant sounding – more friendly).

I have been blessed with a long and varied career, which has included a successful period as a Garden Designer, with over 250 domestic schemes, including 37 RHS medals, and feel quite entitled to call myself a Designer. At the same time as working on my ‘own’ schemes, I was also working for 25 of the leading Garden Designers of the 80s and 90s, all of them fully aware that I was also a professional designer.

I developed a strict Code of Conduct which I called Keeping The Faith. This code stood me well for over 20 years, and I have never fallen out with any single one of those designers, as we had a clear understanding about ‘Working Together’

On my behalf, I never told any of my staff of any dealings I may have had with the designer. My contract, written or verbal, was an agreement, and nobody else’s business – including the client. My undertaking with the designer was to produce the scheme as specified or drawn, using all materials and techniques as described on the plans/specification, without question or comment.

Any problems that arose, and they were frequent, especially on larger projects, matters of materials, inaccurate drawings, general hiccups etc were quietly dealt with in conversation – rarely if ever in writing – and issues resolved. On the odd occasion, a Variation Order may need signing off (more of these VO’s later), with the client very happy with the smooth running of the contract.

On the designers side, he/she would trust me completely to produce the scheme, albeit with any minor alterations if and as necessary quietly dealt with as above. The designer would never, under any circumstances, try to blame me for any problems that may have arisen due to inaccurate planning.

To complete the Keeping The Faith, I would never mention, or allow any mention of the fact that I was also a professional designer, and if the clients found out (via Chelsea etc), then I would state in polite terms that their garden had been designed by XXXXXXX, and it was not ethical for either of us comment on the others work! We worked as a Team, and we worked well together. Most of my work came via recommendations from other designers, so it was a very happy and prosperous business period for me, and only ceased when I became Head Gardener to Goodwood, and my son James (Arun Landscapes Ltd) took over from me. He still operates the same system of Keeping The Faith, working with the leading designers of today!

Marketing Ideas and Strategy / Giving Value For Money
« Last post by Alan Sargent on January 01, 2016, 04:27:33 pm »

As I wear several hats – as a designer, contractor and consultant, nowadays probably 30/30/40 percent with an increasing workload as consultant, after nearly half a century in the industry I believe I offer good value for money. I often hear and read of designers and contractors who are uncomfortable with their rates; honestly believing they are worth more than they can command, yet seemingly unable or unwilling to raise their fees for fear of losing work.

If you are able to mentally step back and examine your business and services, and think about what you are really able to offer to your potential customers in terms of quality, originality, and the cost savings involved in their project, you will begin to understand what value you can bring to their lives.

I never think in terms of quantity. I am not going to enter any competition by trying to offer more for less in the same way as a commercial operator is obliged to when tendering for (say) a major planting scheme. This has never been my market, and I do not fully understand the benefits of providing clients with the cheapest option, always the best value. (Perhaps this is why I have chosen the domestic marketplace, unless working on specialist projects requiring a particular ‘niche’ expertise, when I work on some larger Historic properties.)

I have never been awarded a project by being the cheapest, (as far as I am aware!) and therefore have no real difficulty in providing  potential clients with my rates. I do not make a big issue out of these figures. They are quietly provided with my ‘personal’ documents at the time of initial interview, along with my insurance, bank details etc. I do not feel the need to prove myself to anyone – after all, I have been invited to discuss their project at their request. When discussing design or consultancy, my hourly or day rates, including expenses, together with payment terms are clearly set out. Nothing to excite them, nothing to hide, just my terms. (Obviously, construction contracts are presented in a different manner)

As such commissions are sequential, with initial layout, detailed designs, planting plans etc, all subject to invoice at each stage, it is easy to allow the client to manage their funds as they wish.
Provided that you can show and explain at each stage the benefits of undertaking the project in your nominated fashion, together with any cost savings that may be made – not only in terms of the actual construction, but perhaps in terms of future savings and additional value to the property (all of this is explained subtly, and each project should offer the designer a vision and ‘storyboard’ of the benefits of their chosen design/material choice showcasing their expertise and knowledge both of landscaping but also the lifestyle/lifestage advantages of their creation.)

This Value For Money approach should transcend any thoughts of your charges. Why not experiment by raising your rates by 25% for the next couple of enquiries and see how you get along?
Perceived value is highly valued!

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